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…on a horse that’s excited, scared or feisty. Be prepared for spooks. A nervous or excited horse is more prone to spook, spin and bolt. Mange your rein length and know how to shorten and lengthen your reins blindfolded (my rope reins are the perfect length and are easy to…
…horses ridden on a loose rein – or even bridleless – that seem to be cantering quite confidently. Is she referencing a proper collected dressage canter specifically or am I missing something in my knowledge of a horse that is ridden in western pleasure, reining, barrel, or other disciplines? Thanks…
Julie talks with Joanne about how she should use rein to control Roscoe’s speed.
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Julie Goodnight helps a ranch rider refine her rein cues for horsemanship patterns and reining.
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…and during any time you’re together. He should not be looking around while you are riding him, either in the arena or on the trail. Simply correct the nose with the opposite rein—if he looks right, bump the left rein, and visa-versa. Do not try to hold the nose in…
…Simply correct the nose with the opposite rein—if he looks right, bump the left rein, and visa-versa. Do not try to hold the nose in place; just correct it when he is wrong. I use the point of shoulder as a guideline; he can move his nose all he wants…
Split rein hold Split reins are commonly used by western riders and there are several ways to hold them– the two-handed trainer’s hold (with the reins bridged and both reins in both hands), one-handed trainer’s hold (reins bridged with four fingers between the reins) and the proper split rein,
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…to either side, correct it with a gentle and slow bump of one rein (if he’s turning his nose to the right, use the left rein and visa versa). Again, it isn’t a pull or a jerk, but a slow gentle bump up on the rein and keep bumping (not…
…down the center line (the long line in the middle of your arena); while keeping his nose and body pointed straight ahead, ask him to move right—part sideways, part forward—by bringing your left rein in and up toward his withers (indirect rein in front of the withers), opening your right…
…constantly pulling on the reins. The results were almost immediate and by the time we taped the conclusion of the show the next day, both Mike and his horse had found a new appreciation for each other as they went casually down the trail on a loose rein.
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…ahead and will go in the direction you ask, at the speed you dictate, without constant direction from you. Many riders micro-manage their horses by constantly steering and correcting speed with the reins, so the horse becomes dependent on that. Once you cue a horse to go at a certain…
…physical pressure, like the spank of a rein or having to work hard or it could be mental pressure, like issuing constant directives that requires your horse to focus on you.
When you correct a horse for eating grass while riding, jerk up harshly and quickly on ONE rein….
…you lead with the reins instead of halter when a rider is mounted, place one hand lightly on the reins, not holding the reins too close to the horse’s chin, being careful not to squeeze both reins together and pressure horse’s mouth. Frankly, I prefer that a leader only holds…
…with your ribcage), giving a release with the outside rein and increased pressure to the inside rein, thus supporting the horse’s head, neck and shoulders in the turn.
Using your whole body to communicate with the horse and having all of the aids give the same signal to…
…reins, asks the horse to turn with the inside rein, then starts pulling on the outside rein too, effectively pulling the nose in two directions at the same time. Pulling on two reins to turn puts incredible undue pressure on the horse’s mouth. It appears to him that you asked…
…but a horse that trusts you will try and jump the moon if you ask.
On a daily basis, I see riders taking a death-grip on the reins, micro-managing every move that the horse makes—asking him to go, then restricting his ability to move forward with the reins; asking…
…needing to pull on the reins.
By using your voice and seat as stopping cues, you’ll help your horse understand that you want him to slow down. This will give him the chance to stop willingly, so you won’t have to apply rein pressure to his mouth during everyday…
…your stopping cue before he feels you pull on his mouth, he’ll happily and promptly stop.
Don’t hesitate to use your reins as reinforcements to your seat aid if your horse doesn’t respond right away. Continue to cue your horse with your seat before the reins and he’ll eventually…
…time. Next you’ll slightly lift the inside rein; this is less of a rein cue and more of a repositioning of your body into the canter position for the inside lead, with your inside shoulder lifted and your weight in the outside stirrup. The last part of the cue is…
…time. Next you’ll slightly lift the inside rein; this is less of a rein cue and more of a repositioning of your body into the canter position for the inside lead, with your inside shoulder lifted and your weight in the outside stirrup. The last part of the cue is…
…rein and is the precursor to vertical flexion, when the horse brings his nose in and down in response to pressure from two reins (as needed for collection and “framing” a horse). But too much of a good thing is a bad thing and, as with many things in horse…
…him a moment to observe the new object, take a deep breath, and relax.
If your horse tries to turn away — if he even starts to look to one side or the other —correct his focus by picking up on one rein and pointing his nose back to…
…with one rein (pulling on two reins when a horse bucks usually spells disaster), but do not let him stop. He should only get to stop when he is relaxed, obedient and moving forward.
Good luck and be careful!
Julie Goodnight
Trainer and Clinician
Copyright ©Julie…
Julie Goodnight and Dale Myler help a rescued, off-the-track Thoroughbred learn new rein and bit cues so he can be adopted as a pleasure mount.
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Julie Goodnight helps a ranch rider refine her rein cues for horsemanship patterns and reining. Bonus footage not seen on TV.
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Julie Goodnight helps a rider learn to turn with little rein.
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…First, it is important to understand the difference between curbs and snaffles; many people have misconceptions about this. It has nothing to do with the mouthpiece—being jointed doesn’t make it a snaffle. A snaffle is a “direct pressure” bit, meaning the reins are attached directly opposite the mouthpiece and there…
…each clinic I give.
It was not the technique that Jack used to ask the mare to go, stop or turn (the instructions that Cheryl offered as immediate solutions— “pull the right rein, loosen the left rein, kick her with your left leg… ”), but it was the change…
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When talking about getting your horse to lower his head and round his frame, I always talk about using a lot of leg (not spur) and that you always increase leg pressure when you increase rein pressure. There are many articles in my Training Library that address the…
…When horses are uncomfortable, they try to run away from it. Typically horses that are going too fast simply need a release of rein pressure—something that is counter-intuitive to the rider. OTTBs in particular need to be ridden with a looser rein because believe it or not, on the race…
Split rein hold Split reins are commonly used by western riders and there are several ways to hold them– the two-handed trainer’s hold (with the reins bridged and both reins in both hands), one-handed trainer’s hold (reins bridged with four fingers between the reins) and the proper
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…into the stirrups. Clearly, they had all done this before. But as the rider took up the reins and the header stepped away, the mare made it very clear that she wasn’t going anywhere or doing anything. She was rearing (a blatant refusal to move forward), and stomping the ground….
…subject of pet peeves of mine regarding the bit, another thing I hate to see is someone from the ground holding the horse by two reins just behind the bit as they lead or even just hold the horse. This is putting unnecessary and perhaps painful pressure on the horse’s…
…bit for him.
First, it is important to understand the difference between curbs and snaffles; many people have misconceptions about this. It has nothing to do with the mouthpiece—being jointed doesn’t make it a snaffle. A snaffle is a “direct pressure” bit, meaning the reins are attached directly opposite…
…like this device because it teaches the horse to give to the slightest rein pressure and to seek out the slack in the rein.
I hope this helps. Julie Goodnight, Clinician and Trainer
Copyright ©Julie Goodnight 2000. All Rights Reserved. No part of this website may be reproduced…
Question Category: Riding Skills
Question: Which hand should you hold the reins in when riding Western? And what should you do with your free hand?
Answer: Traditionally, the left hand is used for the reins, in order to leave the right hand free to throw a
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…“sponge hands” to collect him and keep him from leaning on me, circling smaller and smaller, pulling back on one rein and pulling his nose to my knee with no luck. Selling him is not an option as I am rather attached and wouldn’t sell him even if I couldn’t…
Letting Go: Julie Goodnight teaches a nervous rider the importance of relaxing her rein hold, riding with draped reins
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Big Go, No Whoa: Julie Goodnight teaches the emergency stop, calms a nervous rider
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…middle of the arena; he’s counter-bent and still not on the rail. When the rider tries to hold the horse on the rail with the outside rein (or hold the horse in a certain speed), she becomes complicit in the horse’s disobedience—it is a co-dependent relationship. Your horse is constantly…
…reflection on your horsemanship and a liability to the group.
Stands Quietly for Mounting and Dismounting: From day one, we teach horses to stand square, dead-still, and on a loose rein for mounting and dismounting and to never walk off without a cue from the rider. This will come…
…reins to make him stop or slow down. Now I am riding with a new instructor, who I really like. He tells me I should be using my seat to ask the horse to stop and go, although he can’t seem to tell me how. What is the secret to…
How to turn your horse by cueing with your body instead of your reins….
…away. It’s best to use one rein when applying this constant pressure—ride with two hands, but only ask your horse to respond to the pressure on one side at a time. If you pull on two reins simultaneously you risk her locking her jaw or stiffening her neck.
Once…
…the horse lifts up to push off into the first stride and clinches the reins. This causes the horse to hit the bit hard as he lunges forward and hurts his mouth. In that moment, the rider has essentially punished the horse for doing what she asked. So you can…
…reach forward with your hands towards the horse’s ears. If you pull back on the reins when the horse is not moving freely forward or even just keep your hands in a neutral position, the horse is unlikely to move forward. Actively pulling back on the reins of a lazy…
…must reach forward with your hands towards the horse’s ears. If you pull back on the reins when the horse is not moving freely forward or even just keep your hands in a neutral position, the horse is unlikely to move forward. Actively pulling back on the reins of a…