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…constantly threatening to break gait and the rider is constantly saying, “No, don’t do that.” I see horses cutting corners and the rider pulling the outside rein. I see horses pulling toward the gate/barn/buddy and the rider seemingly oblivious, pulling the horse in the other direction but never confronting the…
…rein is the blocking rein. Before you get to the spot where you know the horse will veer, simply reach forward, and close the rein against the neck. Be very careful not to pull on the rein, which would ask the horse to turn left—the way it wants to go.
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…this always comes up at C Lazy U, besides riding in the wilderness, is that they use split reins on the horses. Split reins can feel awkward if you are not used to them. Other types of reins may be more user friendly and I designed my reins specifically for their…
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The potential for abuse is high with draw reins. Improper adjustment and improper usage leads to entrapment for the horse. Used properly, along with regular reins, the draw reins have a minor effect and may help the rider bring the horse into frame. When draw reins are used alone,
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…pain. Transmitting fear through the reins is very common and rarely has a good effect.
Furthermore, developing good rein handling skills is important in all matters of riding—that means knowing how to properly hold the reins, what the correct rein length is for the situation, and how to shorten…
…the wrong way. The neck rein is typically used for one-handed riding, but may be used two-handed in combination with another rein aid. For example, when you’re teaching a young horse to neck rein, you may use the neck rein as the outside rein aid and the leading rein on…
…reins, I’ve forced myself to ride one-handed and with far less rein contact—which is more appropriate rein handling for Annie’s level of training.
In addition to the full assessment of my tack and equipment, I also evaluate my horse’s current fitness level to figure out what we need to…
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To become the rider that every horse wants, first the rider learns to cue for stops and turns without the reins, using rein pressure to reinforce cues that came from your other natural aids (seat, legs, and voice). Gradually the rider loosens the reins until the horse responds to
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…illustration purposes, we’ll start with the left hand. Shorten the left rein by sliding your hand down until the rein is quite short. With your right hand, hold the rest of the reins (if you’re riding with loop reins) or the opposite rein (if you’re riding with split reins).
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…out of control. You execute the one rein stop by picking up one rein, and one rein only, and lifting it up, not back, toward your belly button or toward your opposite shoulder (it is an upward, diagonal pull on the rein). It is critical that the other rein is…
…hold the rope rein right in the middle—to allow your horse to ride on a loose rein. The rope rein fills up your hands and is easy to hold onto. The rope is easy to shorten and lengthen (compared to split reins).
“The reins I designed have a marker…
…horse to turn with the neck rein first and then reinforcing with a bump of the leading rein until he turns consistently off of the neck-rein cue.
Step 4: Once you’re initiating and holding the turns as long as you want with the neck rein—and the horse…
…seems out of control. To execute the one-rein stop, pick up one rein and lift it up toward your belly button or toward your opposite shoulder (it’s an upward, diagonal pull on the rein). It’s critical that the other rein is completely loose.
This rein aid will turn your…
…pull that rein straight back and up with all your weight (you’re only pulling with one rein, the other rein is locked and braced against your horse’s neck).
Since the first rein is locked, it’s preventing your horse’s head from turning and he is pulling against his own…
…split reins). I was really excited to find Julie’s weighted rope reins since I’m not real good with split reins! Now I’m wondering if at some point should the horse move into a lighter weight rein or are the heavy rope reins a long term rein to use if not…
…two horses.
Annie, at the ripe old age of 14, is highly trained and knows her job well. Fully tacked or without saddle and bridle, she can perform full reining patterns and execute just about any maneuver asked of her. Oddly, if I haven’t ridden in a…
…meltdown. Instead, she exhaled, put her head down and marched right into the arena as if to say, “Bring it on!”
Instead of “working the fresh off her,” we calmly walked lap after lap on a loose rein, stopping occasionally to watch as the vacuous building slowly populated with…
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Upsides:
Advancing the horse’s skill level may require a professional trainer or higher skilled rider at times. Even if your horse is already well-trained, seeing an accomplished rider take the reins can be quite enlightening! Your horse may know more than you think,
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…ridden on direct contact, sometimes a lot of contact, the reins are made for gripping. Rainbow reins have different colors between the rein grips to help young or novice riders know where to place their hands. Since many English horses are ridden in running martingales, often English reins will have…
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Evaluate Your Horse’s Sensitivity Level: Think about how reactive your horse is to sounds, movements, leg and rein pressure, changes in the rider’s balance, touching, brushing, etc. Remember that both low and high sensitivity can be an advantage to a certain type of rider—so there’s no right or wrong.
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…from pulling on reins. Keeping a rein in each hand, I hug around the horse’s neck as he ascends, and slip my feet out of the stirrups, in case the horse falls. Once it comes back down, I will send it forward immediately, in any direction I can.
Keep…
…when you need it.
“Eyes–breathe–sit back.” “Slow down and breathe.” “Stop–back–turn.” “Eyes–rise–thighs.” “Whoa–sit–reins.”
Horses are even more emotional than humans, and they instinctively adopt the emotions of the animals around them—it’s a survival response. That is why it’s important to have a strategy to keep your emotions…
…the ground or from the saddle. We use the one rein stop on young horses or any horses that are very forward and/or resistant to pressure from the reins. The finished horses stop off your seat, without any rein pressure at all. Disengagement and the one-rein stop are generally techniques…
…If not, repeat. So every time the horse gets squirrelly, pick up on one rein until the horse disengages and stops. Soon, the horse will begin to slow and relax when you just begin to lift one rein. The one rein stop is far superior to pulling on both reins,…
…when the horse stiffens his neck straight in front of him that we lose control. Using one rein to stop or using both reins alternately, like you do for collection is the ideal. Even when using both reins, you always want to keep a rhythm in the reins so that…
…recommend using it and why?
Thanks, Sarah
Answer: Any horse will work better when the reins are used one at a time as opposed to using both reins at the same time. There are several reasons for this. First, when you pull on both reins at the same…
…rein up toward your opposite shoulder so that it’s an upward, diagonal pull (it’s essential the other rein is loose). Pull slowly and softly, this is not intended to be a harsh or quick movement. Hold the rein up until you feel his hindquarters disengage and then drop the rein…
…rein on video yet, but it will be in one of my next videos. Below is an excerpt about the pulley rein from a Q&A about the one-rein stop and horses that run through the bridle. It is a very difficult thing to teach via email and it really needs…
…exercise, work in an enclosed arena and outfit your horse in a mild snaffle with a nice long rein (a single-loop rope rein works well for this exercise, see www.juliegoodnight.com for the recreational rein I designed). Keep in mind that the worst thing you can do is pull back with…
…the reins interferes with the horse’s forward motion.
When I am working to get rid of the brace in a horse’s neck, I will make my outside rein totally loose, then reach forward and lift up on the inside rein in a gentle pulsating motion like gigging a…
…ask her for the replacement behavior.
3-step circling involves a small circle at a walk, with your hand in three different positions that causes the horse to bend three different parts of her body. You will only use the inside rein; it is imperative that the outside rein is…
…in a horse’s neck is difficult to explain in writing, but you need to work on not pulling on both reins at the same time and learn to lift up on the reins rather than pulling back. Pulling back on the reins interferes with your horse’s forward motion. When I…
…a reasonably loose rein. In slow motion, move both hands to the side (in the direction you want to turn) so that the inside rein is a leading rein and the outside rein is a neck rein (see the Q&A about rein-aids). Move your hands as a unit like they…
…In slow motion, move both hands to the side (in the direction you want to turn) so that the inside rein is a leading rein and the outside rein is a neck rein (see the Q&A about rein-aids). Move your hands as a unit like they are connected; there is…
…rein. Practice the one-rein stop at slow speeds until the horse is very responsive. Then when you feel him getting strong, you can pick up one rein. Check out Julie’s Bits HERE
If that does not stop him, you need to know how to use the “pulley rein.” When…
…a means to stop a runaway horse, using one rein, but without turning the horse. It is dangerous to try and turn or circle a runaway horse because the chances of him falling are good. The pulley rein gives you a means to apply leverage with one rein, with a…
…up, you are probably taking an even greater hold on the reins, and that is likely what is causing the problem.
I suggest you spend some time riding him in the round pen at a trot with loose reins tied to the horn. Pick up the reins if you…
…doesn’t pull the reins out of your hand.
In general, we tend to ride Western horses on a much looser rein than an English horse, and that is the main difference in the rein hold. When riding Western in a snaffle with split reins, you usually cross your reins…
…bit with a short shank that has the independent side motion as I tend to go back and forth between two hands or one.
I recently started taking Classical Dressage lessons and I am struggling most with the reins. I’m so used to releasing a rein when the horse…
…pressure. While keeping track of the right-left rhythm in your head, add alternating rein pressure (slight sponge squeezes with your fingers), in timing with your legs. When your right leg closes on your horse, your right fingers close on the reins. Make sure you count the rhythm and feel when…
…I’m so used to releasing a rein when the horse does what I ask, or using a rein to ask the horse to drop it’s head and relax, and yet the dressage horse I ride seems to look for or even need that contact. My instructor describes contact as holding…
…switches to controlling your horse with the reins. Keep your reins short enough so that you can control him immediately if he takes a step. If he does take a step, sit back and pull back on the reins, and require him to stand still.
If your horse is…
…and fall. The emergency stopping rein (a/k/a the “pulley” rein) is an important skill that all riders should learn.
The pulley rein is like a one-rein stop, except the outside rein is fixed and locked on the crest of the neck, so it will not cause a turn. When…
…rein as his head lowers. But too much of a good think is a bad thing and if the horse spooked on a really loose rein, you would be off balance trying to pick the reins up in time and in the critical time you lost gathering up the reins…
…point in the direction you want your horse to turn, not pulling back on the reins, but to the side and up with the inside hand. (see articles on equitation and rein aids in my Training Library). Your hands would be applying the leading rein (inside) and the neck rein…
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There is a lot of information about disengagement and rein aids on my website; it is executed with the indirect rein behind the withers (a rein of opposition), by lifting the rein up and back toward your belly button or opposite shoulder. It will move the hip away from
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…As we worked through the different ways to use the reins—for instance using the leading rein (which has no opposition) to turn instead of the direct rein—and the one rein stop, I think everyone could see the difference in the way their horse’s responded. Although everyone would have loved to…
…some good personal instruction too.
You need to learn to correct the horse with one rein, not two and by lifting up or sideways with the rein, not back. Pulling back on the rein, whether it is one rein or two, always opposes a horse’s forward motion and makes…
…you’ll probably need some good personal instruction too.
You need to learn to correct the horse with one rein, not two and by lifting up or sideways with the rein, not back. Pulling back on the rein, whether it is one rein or two, always opposes a horse’s forward…
