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…not two and by lifting up or sideways with the rein, not back. Pulling back on the rein, whether it is one rein or two, always opposes a horse’s forward motion and makes him want to stop (which is what he would prefer to do at the gate). Lifting your…
…rein and are being ridden one-handed are usually more comfortable in a mild curb bit.
A leverage bit (commonly called a curb bit) has shanks (bars running along side the horse’s mouth) and a curb strap (or curb chain), like the Tom Thumb; the reins are attached below the…
…or harder. A closed-loop rope rein or an English rein is easier; split reins are the hardest to shorten and lengthen. The reins I designed are a heavy closed-loop rope rein, specifically designed for ease of use. https://shop.juliegoodnight.com/product-tag/rope-reins
For fearful riders that are tense and clenching on the reins,…
…he root down on the reins, jerking you out of the saddle? Does he shake his head, grind his teeth and snarl his lips whenever you pick up the reins? Or worse, does he take off with you when you ask him to stop, running through the bridle no matter…
…to use your seat to stop the horse. Learn to use the pulley rein if you need an emergency stop.
When he starts rooting on the reins, you should immediately stiffen and lock one hand on the rein so that he hits himself on one side of his…
…hip, block his shoulder a little by closing with your right rein.
To do so, bring your hand back toward his neck (don’t pull back), and bring your left hand back and up toward your belly button in an “indirect rein.” At the same time, reach back more with…
…pull on a shorter rein (which he will because this has become engrained learned behavior), I lock my hand on the rein, or even lock my hand against the pommel, so that he roots into a very fixed rein and hits himself in the mouth. If he does not get…
…then they know they can do anything they want.
When turning right, first slide your hand down the right rein, then slowly pick up on the rein toward your chest, releasing with the opposite rein. The slower you move your hands, the softer the horse will become. The…
…backs at all. In the ideal rein-back, the horse brings his hindquarters up underneath him, rounds his back and lifts his shoulders moving freely on a light rein and with impulsion. Some horses are cued for the rein-back with alternating legs aids (right-left-right-left) while others will respond to both legs…
…the horse and is known as ‘prideful’ behavior. Collection is natural for the horse (although difficult); headset is something that is artificially imposed by the rider. There are several Q&As on my website that address these issues, including collection, headset for shows, side reins and bitting devices. I just filmed…
…and then they know they can do anything they want.
When turning right, first slide your hand down the right rein, then slowly pick up on the rein toward your chest, releasing with the opposite rein. The slower you move your hands, the softer the horse will become. The…
…With a horse entirely ignorant of leaping, the best way is to take him by the leading rein, which hangs loose, and to get across the trench yourself first, and then to pull tight on the leading-rein, to induce him to leap across. If he refuses, some one with a…
…his mouth, drop the rein down on his neck immediately and praise him; then ask again. Work on one side repeatedly, and then work on the other. When your horse softly flexes to the side every time you pick up the rein (slowly and gently so that he has the…
…or move in the right direction. First your horse must learn that when you pick up a rein it means to lower her head (acquisition). Once she makes this connection, hold the rein a little longer until the head comes lower, then release. Gradually increase the amount of time you…
…for short periods of time and gradually increase. If you have trouble controlling him out in the open with a snaffle, you need to work on the one-rein stop and the pulley rein.
There are several Q&As on my website that relate to bits, bitting problems and solutions and…
…to move sideways in a side-pass to the right, I need to close the doors on the left, close the door in front and open the doors to the right. So, I will bring my left rein against the horse’s neck (neck rein or indirect rein in front of the…
…Two, the elbow-pull creates a rhythmic alternating pull, rather than a static pull on both reins (like side reins), and it is far more effective to use one rein at a time rather than two (a horse stiffens his neck and leans into it when you pull on both reins…
…is a fruitless behavior). When he does root or pull on a shorter rein (which he will because this has become engrained learned behavior), I lock my hand on the rein, or even lock my hand against the pommel, so that he roots into a very fixed rein and hits…
…to look at the scary bushes, wildlife, etc., bump his nose back to center with light rein pressure.
Avoid gripping the reins tightly. Keep the reins loose, so your horse doesn’t feel your anxiety and think he should be worried. But don’t allow too much rein slack. You’ll need…
…this was a “starter” show to encourage people just starting on cow work, riders had the choice to ride in a reining-only class, a rein and box only class and then the “jackpot” class had the whole thing—rein, box, fence and circle.
Diana rode Renegade in the reining-only and…
…with your inside rein, using the ‘indirect rein in front of the withers.’ To apply this rein aid, you’ll turn your inside hand, like you’re turning a key in the door, so that your pinkie comes in and up, thus creating an upward diagonal pull on the rein. Open your…
…fraction of an inch, release the rein and rub him on the neck, then ask again. You must reward any effort on the part of the horse to do the right thing or move in the right direction. First the horse must learn that when you pick up a rein…
…the bit and your bit to the reins. Goodnight says losing one rein isn’t as traumatic as losing your entire bridle. Still, if your horse isn’t properly trained, you may have trouble stopping without pulling the bit through his mouth. Plus, stopping for repairs during a ride is never a…
…to stop him because that would be asking him two things at once). Watch his muzzle and the rein very closely and the instant there is the slightest give, causing slight slack in the rein, release completely and make a big fuss of him. As with all of horse training,…
…and using your inside leg at the girth will help the horse bend. Using the indirect rein in front of the withers (lifting up and in on the inside rein in an upward diagonal pull- no backward pull) will help move the horse’s withers out and create a better bend…
…is the reinforcement and because I gave the cue first, then reinforced with the rein contact, it increases the likelihood of the response. The reins are reinforcement, not the cue. In very short order, through reinforcement, I have a horse that turns without rein pressure (a beautiful thing for both…
…leg pressure just behind the cinch/girth. At the same time, lift up, in, and back with your left rein while keeping your right rein close to your horse’s neck. Your leg and rein aids tell him that the only open door is to the right, not forward, back, or to…
Does Your Horse Fear the Canter Cue? At my clinics and during the TV show shoots, I often see horses that are fearful of the canter cue. Many riders are a little intimidated by the canter, so they tend to clench up on the reins at the moment the
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…able to work your horse on a loose rein in an extended frame or on a short rein in a collected frame at the walk and trot, and have him maintain a steady speed, rhythm and frame.
You’ll need to have the ability to sit the trot and canter…
…elbow-pull creates a rhythmic alternating pull, rather than a static pull on both reins (like side reins) and it is far more effective to use one rein at a time rather than two (a horse stiffens his neck and leans into it when you pull on both reins at the…
…Then pick up the rein again until the horse makes the connection that lowering his head makes the rein pressure go away. Soon he should be happy to go to “the closet” and stay there when you pick up one rein. Remember, you’ll have to release the reins to let…
…front of his chest. If it moves to either side, I will correct it with a gentle and slow bump of one rein (if he is turning his nose to the right, use the left rein and visa versa). Again, it is not a pull or a jerk, but a…
…rein to keep the horse from diving in, then the actual cue to canter comes when I curl my hips in the canter motion (which is a move like pushing a swing.) I also like to use a kissing sound. It’s all about the sequence—outside leg, inside rein, push with…
…make sure you know how to effectively use the one-rein stop. If you pull on two reins to stop the horse, the pressure on his mouth is so great that the horse will tend to lean into the pressure and brace against it—your horse may even run off to escape…
…mount up while holding the lead rope and your reins in your left hand. As soon as you’re in the saddle, you’ll take the reins with your left hand and hold the ponied horse’s rope in your right. Always hold the ponied horse’s rope in a way that you can…
…contact, that may help steady the bit in his mouth and give him something to balance on.
On the other hand, the loose ring snaffle, which allows the mouthpiece to spin around the ring, is a useful bit for horses that are ridden on a loose rein. He can…
…gas pedal that keeps the horse moving forward and prevents it from falling in. I use my reins with alternating pressure, right-left-right-left, squeezing the rein as the horse’s shoulder comes back. I never use pressure on two reins at the same time because that causes the horse to be stiff…
…their horses going too fast at the canter when the horse is actually moving well. If the horse is green, you may have to accept a little speed.
One thing I know for sure, you cannot control speed by pulling on the reins. Pulling on two reins to make…
…your hips when cantering. I heard I’m supposed to go counter-clockwise on both the left and right-rein, and clockwise on the counter-canters. Is this true? Does it even matter?
Thanks, Alissa
Answer: Alissa,
Feeling canters leads is not hard, either is feeling posting diagonals. But to do…
…pick up (not back) on ONE rein (not two) and repeat the steps above, releasing as soon as your horse even thinks about dropping his head. Then pick up the rein again until your horse makes the connection that lowering his head makes the rein pressure go away. Soon he…
…Use one rein. When you correct your gelding for eating grass while riding, jerk up harshly and quickly on one rein. Any time you pull on both reins, you start a tug-of-war with him and you’ll never win that contest. But with one rein, you have control.
Ask him…
“Rein it In” On Horse Master: Learning rein aids and how to turn and bend your horse.
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Julie demonstrates how to pulley rein on Roscoe.
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…on a horse that’s excited, scared or feisty. Be prepared for spooks. A nervous or excited horse is more prone to spook, spin and bolt. Mange your rein length and know how to shorten and lengthen your reins blindfolded (my rope reins are the perfect length and are easy to…
…physical pressure, like the spank of a rein or having to work hard or it could be mental pressure, like issuing constant directives that requires your horse to focus on you.
When you correct a horse for eating grass while riding, jerk up harshly and quickly on ONE rein….
…horses ridden on a loose rein – or even bridleless – that seem to be cantering quite confidently. Is she referencing a proper collected dressage canter specifically or am I missing something in my knowledge of a horse that is ridden in western pleasure, reining, barrel, or other disciplines? Thanks…
…and during any time you’re together. He should not be looking around while you are riding him, either in the arena or on the trail. Simply correct the nose with the opposite rein—if he looks right, bump the left rein, and visa-versa. Do not try to hold the nose in…
…Simply correct the nose with the opposite rein—if he looks right, bump the left rein, and visa-versa. Do not try to hold the nose in place; just correct it when he is wrong. I use the point of shoulder as a guideline; he can move his nose all he wants…
Split rein hold Split reins are commonly used by western riders and there are several ways to hold them– the two-handed trainer’s hold (with the reins bridged and both reins in both hands), one-handed trainer’s hold (reins bridged with four fingers between the reins) and the proper split rein,
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